My pet can’t eat, certain foodsDietary or food intolerance is an adverse reaction to food or a food additive (e.g. food colouring). It can be the result of the ingestion of toxic food, diary products (lactose intolerance), specific foods or dietary indiscretion.It affects both dogs and cats.
Dogs and cats may show signs of abdominal pain or distension, diarrhoea, vomiting and flatulence. Dogs and cats can be intolerant of carbohydrates, lactose, food colouring and some preservatives.
Your veterinarian will then do some testing to try to determine if your pet is suffering from dietary intolerance. He will do a complete history, perform a thorough physical examination, blood tests, faecal flotation and urinalysis and may perform special tests if required.Blood tests and urine are usually normal. For example, with dietary hypersensitivity, the response to changes in the diet occurs within one to two weeks. If there is no response, dietary intolerance is suspected.There are other disease problems that may show similar clinical signs.
To treat dietary intolerance, try to avoid your dog’s or cat’s exposure to food toxins, excessive carbohydrates, specific foods e.g. some types of fish, diary products and try to limit consumption of rotten foods, overeating and pica.
As the owner, you should note that many human foods or treats could cause a problem in your dog or cat. You would need to limit or avoid giving your pet these foods. Once the offending food is identified then your dog or cat returns to being the pet you know and love.
Your un-vaccinated dog is old and has difficulty standing and walking. You find that he is becoming paralysed in his hind limbs. You also notice thickening of the pads and his nose. The veterinarian diagnoses Canine Distemper.
What is Canine Distemper?
It is a highly contagious, systemic disease of dogs. It is caused by a paramyxovirus. Aerosol droplets usually spread it.
What do you see?
You may find that your dog has a runny nose and eyes, does not want to eat. You may find some gastrointestinal disturbance. The footpads and nose may become thickened, giving the disease the name hardpad disease. Sometimes, you may see twitching of a group of muscles, paralysis, which may start in the hindlimbs and convulsions.
The disease could be mild to severe.
How would the veterinarian diagnose this disease?
Your veterinarian will take a good history and do a complete physical examination. Your dog may be febrile at the start of the disease. The fever will subside and return a few days later. At this point the runny nose and eyes may be apparent. The neurological signs later in the course of the disease is a good indicator.In typical cases, the diagnosis is relatively easy, although sometimes the signs do not become apparent until later in the disease.
How does the veterinarian treat the disease?
Usually your vet will use supportive treatments to assist your dog. He may be given for example, antibiotics, anticonvulsants, dietary supplements and fluids. You will need to properly nurse your dog. Despite the care given, some dogs will succumb to the disease.
How can I prevent this disease?
Vaccination of puppies starting from six weeks old is the best method. Your veterinarian will discuss your vaccination schedule. Dogs should be vaccinated annually to keep up their protection.
Note: Your veterinary surgeon is your best source of information. The notes given here are for guidance only.
There are serious symptoms that should never be ignored in your dog. A symptom is defined as "any problem that can indicate an underlying disease" and may be your first clue to the presence of a life-threatening problem in your dog. Here is a list of 21 symptoms that should never be ignored if you see them from your dog!
1. Pacing and Restlessness. In dogs, pacing and restlessness can be indicating pain, discomfort or distress. Restlessness can be associated with a condition called "bloat" in which the stomach. Bloat and most commonly occurs in large breed or deep-chested dogs. Pacing and restless can be an indicator of a serious problem.
2. Unproductive Retching. Dogs that attempt to vomit and are unable to bring anything up is a common sign of "bloat". You should call your veterinarian immediately.
3. Collapse or Fainting.Acute collapse is a sudden loss of strength causing your dog to fall and be unable to rise. Some dogs that suddenly collapse will actually lose consciousness. This is called fainting or syncope. Some dogs recover very quickly and look essentially normal just seconds to minutes after collapsing, whereas others stay in the collapsed state until helped. All the reasons for collapse or fainting are serious and should not be ignored. See your veterinarian immediately.
4. Not Eating or Loss of Appetite. Anorexia is a term used to describe the situation where an animal loses his appetite and does not want to eat or is unable to eat. There are many causes of a "loss of appetite" and is often the first indication of illness. Regardless of cause, loss of appetite can have a serious impact on an animal's health if it lasts 24 hours or more. Young animals less than 6 months of age are particularly prone to the problems brought on by loss of appetite.
5. Losing Weight.Weight loss is a physical condition that results from a negative caloric balance. This usually occurs when the body uses and/or excretes essential nutrients faster than it can consume them. Essentially more calories are being burned than are being taken in. Weight loss is considered clinically important when it exceeds 10 percent of the normal body weight and is not associated with fluid loss. There are several causes for this, some of which can be very serious.
6. Breathing Problems. Respiratory distress, often called dyspnea, is labored, difficult breathing or shortness of breath. This can occur at any time during the breathing process, during inspiration (breathing in) or expiration (breathing out). When your dog has trouble breathing, he may not be able to get enough oxygen to his tissues. Additionally, if he has heart failure, he may not be able to pump sufficient blood to his muscles and other tissues. Dyspnea is often associated with accumulation of fluid (edema) in the lungs or the chest cavity (pleural effusion). This fluid can lead to shortness of breath and coughing. This is a very serious symptom and should be evaluated immediately.
7. Red Eye. A "red eye" is a non-specific sign of inflammation or infection. It may be seen with several different diseases including those involving different parts of the eye including the external eyelids, third eyelid, conjunctiva, cornea, and sclera. It may also occur with inflammation of the structures inside the eye, with glaucoma (high pressure within the eye) or with certain diseases of the orbit (eye socket). Either one or both eyes can become red, depending upon the cause of the problem. Some of the possible causes can be serious and ultimately cause blindness.
8. Jaundice. Jaundice, also referred to as icterus, describes the yellow color taken on by the tissues throughout the body due to elevated levels of bilirubin, a substance that comes from the breakdown of red blood cells. There are several causes for jaundice and regardless of the cause, jaundice is considered abnormal and serious in the dog.
9. Trouble Urinating. "Trouble urinating" can include straining to urinate, frequent attempts at urination, and evidence of discomfort when urinating. Discomfort may be demonstrated by crying out during urination, excessive licking at the urogenital region or turning and looking at the area. There are several underlying causes. Some of the causes if left untreated can result in death in as little as 36 hours.
10. Urinating and Drinking Excessively. These signs are often early signs of disease including kidney failure, diabetes mellitus, thyroid gland problems, uterine infection (called pyometra), as well as other causes. Dogs normally take in about 20 to 40 milliliters per pound of body weight per day, or one to two cups per day for a normal sized dog. If you determine that your pet is drinking excessively, make an appointment with your veterinarian.
11. Fever. A fever is defined as an abnormally high body temperature resulting from internal controls. It is believed that fever is a method of fighting infection. The body resets the temperature control area of the brain to increase the body temperature – probably in response to invasion of foreign matter such as bacteria or viruses. The normal temperature in dogs is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If your pet temperature is high, call your veterinarian.
12. Seizure. A seizure or convulsion is a sudden excessive firing of nerves in the brain. The severity of the seizure can vary between a far-away look or twitching in one part of the face to your dog falling on his side, barking, gnashing his teeth, urinating, defecating and paddling his limbs. A seizure can last from seconds to minutes. Seizures are symptoms of some neurological disorder – they are not in themselves a disease. They can be caused by several disorders including epilepsy, toxins or tumors.
13. Bruising and Bleeding. Abnormal bruising and bleeding arises with disorders of hemostasis (clotting). Clotting abnormalities are also called coagulopathies, because they reflect the inability of the blood to coagulate or clot. Bleeding from clotting disturbances may occur into the skin, the mucous membranes, and various internal organs, tissues, and body cavities. The impact of such bleeding on the affected individual may be mild or severe depending on the degree of blood loss.
14. Coughing. Coughing is a common protective reflex that clears secretions or foreign matter from the throat, voice box, and/or airways, and protects the lungs against aspiration. It affects the respiratory system by hindering the ability to breathe properly. Common causes include obstruction in the windpipe, bronchitis, pneumonia, heartworm disease, lung tumors, kennel cough and heart failure. Some of the causes are life threatening and all pets with a cough should be evaluated by a veterinarian.
15. Bloated or Distended Abdomen. Abdominal distension is an abnormal enlargement of the abdominal cavity. This term is usually reserved for abdominal enlargement due to causes other than simple obesity. One cause of abdominal distension is abnormal fluid accumulation. Another cause of abdominal distension is enlargement of any abdominal organ including the liver, kidneys, or spleen. Distension of the stomach with air ("bloating") or fluid or distension of the uterus (womb) during pregnancy, can result in abdominal distension. Pressure from the abdomen pushing into the chest may make breathing more difficult and pressure within the abdomen may decrease the appetite. NOTE: It is important to recognize abdominal distension because it can be a symptom of potentially life-threatening diseases and should be investigated thoroughly
16. Bloody Diarrhea. Blood in the feces can either appear as "melena" which makes the stools appear black and tarry is the presence suggests digested blood in the feces. Melena is different from fresh blood in the stool (hematochezia). Bleeding into the colon or rectum appears as fresh blood in the stool. Bloody diarrhea should be evaluated by your veterinarian as soon as possible.
17. Bloody Urine. Hematuria is the presence of red blood cells in the urine. It may be gross (visible to the naked eye) or microscopic. There are several possible causes including bacterial infections, cancer, stones in the urinary tract.
18. Bite Wounds. Bite wounds are often the result when two animals engage in a fight or aggressive play. Bite wounds, which may only appear as a small puncture wound in the skin, can actually be quite extensive. Once the tooth penetrates the skin, severe damage can occur to the underlying tissues without major skin damage. Some wounds may appear deceptively minor but may have the potential to be life threatening, depending on the area of the body bitten. All bite wounds should receive veterinary attention
19. Bloody Vomit. Vomiting blood, which is bright red, or partially digested blood, which has the appearance of brown coffee grounds. There are a variety of causes of vomiting blood and the effects on the animal are also variable. Some are subtle and minor ailments, while others are severe or life threatening.
20. Lethargy or Weakness. Lethargy is a state of drowsiness, inactivity, or indifference in which there are delayed responses to external stimuli such as auditory (sound), visual (sight), or tactile (touch) stimuli. Lethargy is a nonspecific sign associated with many possible underlying systemic disorders. It may have little to no impact on the affected individual; however its presence may represent severe or life-threatening illness. Lethargy of more than a day's duration should not be ignored, and should be addressed, especially if it persists.
21. Pale Gums. Pale gums or mucous membranes can indicate blood loss or "shock". The possible causes for either blood loss or shock are life-threatening and thus should be evaluated immediately.
One day an old German Shepherd starts chasing rabbits and before long, discovers that he's lost. Wandering about, he notices a panther heading rapidly in his direction with the intention of having lunch.
The old German Shepherd thinks, 'Oh, oh! I'm in deep doo-doo now!' Noticing some bones on the ground close by, he immediately settles down to chew on the bones with his back to the approaching cat. Just as the panther is about to leap, the old German Shepherd exclaims loudly, 'Boy, that was one delicious panther! I wonder, if there are any more around here?'
Hearing this, the young panther halts his attack in mid-strike, a look of terror comes over him and he slinks away into the trees. 'Whew!' says the panther, 'That was close! That old German Shepherd nearly had me!'
Meanwhile, a squirrel who had been watching the whole scene from a nearby tree, figures he can put this knowledge to good use and trade it for protection from the panther. So, off he goes.
The squirrel soon catches up with the panther, spills the beans and strikes a deal for himself with the panther.
The young panther is furious at being made a fool of and says, 'Here, squirrel, hop on my back and see what's going to happen to that conniving canine!
Now, the old German Shepherd sees the panther coming with the squirrel on his back and thinks, 'What am I going to do now?', but instead of running, the dog sits down with his back to his attackers, pretending he hasn't seen them yet, and just when they get close enough to hear, the old German Shepherd says... 'Where's that squirrel? I sent him off an hour ago to bring me another panther!
Moral of this story...
Don't mess with the old dogs... Age and skill will always overcome youth and treachery!
Vaccinating your dog should be considered as important as giving feed and water.Vaccinating your dog protects it from several diseases which confront it on a daily basis.The vaccinated dog, because of its greater immunological defence is better able to resist common debilitating diseases.Under similar conditions, when subjected to the same disease, vaccinated dogs have higher survival rates than the unvaccinated.
In Trinidad and Tobago the diseases most commonly vaccinated against are: Parvo, Leptospirosis, Distemper, Hepatitis and Kennel Cough.There are however several other canine diseases against which we have no vaccines.For discerning canine enthusiasts, a corona virus vaccine is suggested.
How does a vaccine work?
The actual process is somewhat complex.Simplified, the process is as follows: the vaccine which is actually the disease agent is “handicapped” or killed and injected into the body.The body then uses its immune system to generate antibodies and these, when exposed to the active disease agents, are able to attack them and defend the body.
How frequently should my dog be vaccinated?
Regardless of the breed, the first vaccine should be administered by your vet at 6 weeks of age.Under most vaccination programmes for puppies, further boosters should follow at 9 and 12 weeks of age.Some breeds such as Rottweilers and Dobermans require additional vaccinations at 15 and 18 weeks of age, as they are more susceptible to parvo.Recent studies suggest that old dogs may not require frequent vaccinations form some diseases, however, for all dogs less than 7 years a regular annual vaccination is recommended to protect against the common diseases.
I had this idea that I could rope a deer, put it in a stall, feed it up on corn for a couple of weeks, then kill it and eat it. The first step in this adventure was getting a deer. I figured that, since they congregate at my cattle feeder and do not seem to have much fear of me when we are there (a bold one will sometimes come right up and sniff at the bags of feed while I am in the back of the truck not 4 feet away), it should not be difficult to rope one, get up to it and toss a bag over its head (to calm it down) then hog tie it and transport it home.
I filled the cattle feeder then hid down at the end with my rope. The cattle, having seen the roping thing before, stayed well back. They were not having any of it. After about 20 minutes, my deer showed up - 3 of them. I picked out a likely looking one, stepped out from the end of the feeder, and threw my rope. The deer just stood there and stared at me. I wrapped the rope around my waist and twisted the end so I would have a good hold.
The deer still just stood and stared at me, but you could tell it was mildly concerned about the whole rope situation. I took a step towards it, it took a step away. I put a little tension on the rope .., and then received an education. The first thing that I learned is that, while a deer may just stand there looking at you funny while you rope it, they are spurred to action when you start pulling on that rope.
That deer EXPLODED. The second thing I learned is that pound for pound, a deer is a LOT stronger than a cow or a colt. A cow or a colt in that weight range I could fight down with a rope and with some dignity. A deer - no chance.
That thing ran and bucked and twisted and pulled. There was no controlling it and certainly no getting close to it. As it jerked me off my feet and started dragging me across the ground, it occurred to me that having a deer on a rope was not nearly as good an idea as I had originally imagined. The only upside is that they do not have as much stamina as many other animals.
A brief 10 minutes later, it was tired and not nearly as quick to jerk me off my feet and drag me when I managed to get up. It took me a few minutes to realize this, since I was mostly blinded by the blood flowing out of the big gash in my head. At that point, I had lost my taste for corn-fed venison. I just wanted to get that devil creature off the end of that rope.
I figured if I just let it go with the rope hanging around its neck, it would likely die slow and painfully somewhere. At the time, there was no love at all between me and that deer. At that moment, I hated the thing, and I would venture a guess that the feeling was mutual. Despite the gash in my head and the several large knots where I had cleverly arrested the deer's momentum by bracing my head against various large rocks as it dragged me across the ground, I could still think clearly enough to recognize that there was a small chance that I shared some tiny amount of responsibility for the situation we were in. I didn't want the deer to have to suffer a slow death, so I managed to get it lined back up in between my truck and the feeder - a little trap I had set before hand...kind of like a squeeze chute. I got it to back in there and I started moving up so I could get my rope back.
Did you know that deer bite?
They do! I never in a million years would have thought that a deer would bite somebody, so I was very surprised when ... I reached up there to grab that rope and the deer grabbed hold of my wrist. Now, when a deer bites you, it is not like being bit by a horse where they just bite you and then let go. A deer bites you and shakes its head--almost like a pit bull… They bite HARD and it hurts.
The proper thing to do when a deer bites you is probably to freeze and draw back slowly. I tried screaming and shaking instead. My method was ineffective.
It seems like the deer was biting and shaking for several minutes, but it was likely only several seconds. I, being smarter than a deer (though you may be questioning that claim by now), tricked it. While I kept it busy tearing the tendons out of my right arm, I reached up with my left hand and pulled that rope loose.
That was when I got my final lesson in deer behavior for the day.
Deer will strike at you with their front feet. They rear right up on their back feet and strike right about head and shoulder level, and their hooves are surprisingly sharp. I learned a long time ago that, when an animal -- like a horse -- strikes at you with their hooves and you can't get away easily, the best thing to do is try to make a loud noise and make an aggressive move towards the animal. This will usually cause them to back down a bit so you can escape.
This was not a horse… This was a deer, so obviously, such trickery would not work. In the course of a millisecond, I devised a different strategy. I screamed like a woman and tried to turn and run. The reason I had always been told NOT to try to turn and run from a horse that paws at you is that there is a good chance that it will hit you in the back of the head. Deer may not be so different from horses after all, besides being twice as strong and 3 times as evil, because the second I turned to run, it hit me right in the back of the head and knocked me down.
Now, when a deer paws at you and knocks you down, it does not immediately leave. I suspect it does not recognize that the danger has passed. What they do instead is paw your back and jump up and down on you while you are laying there crying like a little girl and covering your head.
I finally managed to crawl under the truck and the deer went away. So now I know why when people go deer hunting they bring a rifle with a scope to sort of even the odds.
All these events are true so help me God... An Educated, Bruised and Bleeding Rancher.......................
Everyone has heard about “Parvo” and the devastating effect that this virus has had on breeders and pet owners alike. Parvo does not discriminate, it affects both mix breed dogs and pure breed dogs, and is life threatening to both sets of animals.
Parvoviral enteritis as it is formally known is a severe gastrointestinal condition caused by a virus. This virus is transmitted via the fecal-oral route. This means that your new puppy has the potential of contracting this virus if it ingests, licks or sniffs faeces from an infected animal.
The virus works by affecting the rapidly-dividing cells of the dog which include the cells of the stomach, bone marrow and intestine. With the destruction of these cells that lining of the intestine there is reduced nutrient and fluid absorption by the puppy. The main signs observed by owners include bloody foul smelling diarrhea, depression, loss of appetite and vomiting. These signs can be fatal in puppies that do not receive proper intensive treatment.
The viral particles which are in faeces (stool) are present for several days before you see the signs of the virus and can continue for about 2wks after the puppy has recovered. The virus can live in the environment for a long period (months) so for this reason it is very important that any kennels, cages, blankets, food and water bowls and any area that could have been exposed to the virus be thoroughly disinfected. Diluted bleach can be used by mixing 1 part bleach to 20 parts water to destroy the virus.
There is no treatment that is able to directly kill the virus. Treatment involves treating the signs produced by the virus with dehydration being of greatest importance. With intensive care dogs with severe symptoms can survive. These dogs generally do not have permanent damage and are almost always immune to the virus for the rest of their lives. Fluids and antibiotics are the main drugs used in treatment by fighting the dehydration and invading opportunistic bacteria respectively. In severe cases intravenous fluids (IV) are required to prevent dehydration which can lead to shock. Food is generally not given until the vomiting has ceased. When vomiting has stopped for 12-24hrs a small amount of water and a bland easily digestible food (available at veterinary clinics) can be offered. The water and food is gradually increased until the puppy is eating normally again.
To prevent this horrible disease you must have all puppies vaccinated,you must not allow unvaccinated puppies to enter areas where they can come into contact with stool from other dogs (E.g. parks, sidewalk, kennels) and you must never assume that your vaccinated puppy cannot contract the virus (although the chances are small). If you observe any of the signs stated above you must take the dog to the veterinarian immediately. The secret to successfully fighting this disease is early consistent treatment.
Recovery from this disease is possible but it takes a combined effort from the veterinarian, puppy and most importantly the owner. Although dogs that recover from parvo are mostly immune it is very important for your dog to get his/her booster vaccinations regularly for parvo and other infectious diseases of dog.
Are you thinking of getting a puppy? If you decide to take a new puppy into your home it would require commitment, responsibility and alterations to your life. You must consider several factors such as the type of dog, your current lifestyle, the presence of children, and most importantly the requirements of the puppy. To make the adjustment easier, it is important that you understand the “cost of owning a dog”. Here are some tips which will help you choose the best dog for you and your family.
Let us consider the type of dog.
If your mind is set on a particular puppy, think of its adult size and your ability to handle a large or small dog. Remember larger dogs need more space and food. In Trinidad and Tobago a “pompek”, or small “mix breed” would serve much better as a lap dog than a large Rottweiler. In the heat of the tropics long hair dogs have special grooming needs, before getting that fabulous Lasa Apso make sure that you are ready for regular trips to the groomer.
What about your lifestyle and personality
Are you resident at home or does your lifestyle demand that you spend days away from your dog. If you will not be able to spend quality time with your dog, then you will need a low maintenance dog. If you are the outdoor time, then choose a puppy that is inquisitive. On the other hand if you are the more sedate type then the hyperactive border collie type dog is not for you. So you are still interested in getting a puppy but need more info before your mind’s made up. Then let's read on.
How will my puppy interact with children?
Most will agree that in general most children and puppies complement each other, under proper supervision. In most cases puppies which grow up with a child will always “love”, protect and obey that child. Dogs are hierarchal animals and will obey the child once taught. Dogs grow faster than humans, that 9-month rott or mastiff can easily tumble your 9-month toddler. On the other hand, some children can cause serious injury to your pup.
At what age should the puppy be taken home?
No pup should be bought before 6 weeks of age since before this time the pup is unable to mount any significant immune defence of its own. Instead it depends on the antibodies supplied by its mother’s milk to defend it from disease.
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